Friday, December 31, 2010

2 Things I Learned about New Year's in Rural Japan

1. New Year's is a family holiday

While we in the States tend to see the new year in with a party with friends, here in Japan they have a big family get-together. Nobody really goes out, and thus even grocery stores close down for the days surrounding the holiday. :(

2. The important day is not December 31--it's January 1.

In America, celebrations tend to end early in the morning on January 1. That's not so here--the important day of the holiday is January 1. There are a lot of special celebrations that in the new year on a high note. Of these traditions, two come to mind right away, Osechi and Hatsumode. 
Osechi is the traditional food that Japanese people eat on New Year's. Each food has a traditional meaning that generally helps bring luck. I have never actually had the pleasure of eating it, but from what I hear, it's the traditional meanings that are important, not the taste. Which I think is a polite way of saying it doesn't taste that good. 
Hatsumode, on the other hand, is the first visit to a shrine of the year. Families make the trek to their local shrine, or to a particularly auspicious one, and say prayers.

3. The TV Shows

Every year, the same specials show on New Year's Eve.
The first, most long-standing program is Kouhaku Uta Gassen. It's a program that showcases popular artists and songs. Singers are invited to perform, and are separated into two teams, red and white. Based on the performances, one team will win.
Watching this show takes some dedication, as it's about 5 hours long. Here's a sample, that unfortunately features the bane of a teacher's existence, the band AKB48.
Yes, there really are that many members. Figures that only their fans would have a video up by now! Also, the video is mirrored so that the poster can't be accused of copyright infringement. Somehow, mirroring it makes it a different thing entirely. 
There is one more music special, and that is the Johnny's Countdown. Johnny's is a boyband factory that produces mediocre acts year after year...and they all manage to get pretty popular. Some are better than others. 
This countdown is the only one that actually has a countdown to the New Year, so for the minutes around 12, this is what I watched so I would make sure I didn't miss the change! 
Here's a sample. You might need sunglasses--the sparkles and sequins are blinding.
The last is Gaki no Tsukai Ya Arahen De, a hilarious show featuring a few comedians. These comedians are put through crazy experiences designed to make them laugh. If they do laugh, though, they get spanked by masked enforcers.
Only Japan could think this up. e
The danger of this show is that it runs well past midnight, so if you're watching too intently, you'll miss out on the countdown.



Happy New Year, wherever you are!
明けましておめでとうございます!今年もよろしくおねがいします。

3 Things I Learned about Christmas in Rural Japan

1. Christmas is for couples.

Christmas falls more in line with Valentine's Day than anything else. It's a day where couples are supposed to go on romantic dates and go look at "Christmas Illuminations" (ie Christmas lights) while holding hands.
People who don't have significant others bond together to celebrate while professing they don't need (wo)men and are happier with friends anyways. 
Outside of couples, there is no real exchange of gifts, and outside of English classes, no real forum for celebration.  In fact...


2. Most people don't know what Christmas is.

I polled my students to find out what they knew about Christmas. A majority of them thought it was a day to celebrate the birthday of....Santa Claus.
Also, Santa Claus apparently lives in America and prefers to eat KFC to cookies. Bet you never knew that!
Devoid of any meaning whatsoever, Christmas is an entirely commercial holiday, just like the US.
Where the romance aspect got added on, I don't know. In my mind, celebrating the birthday of a rotund old man doesn't lend itself to romance very well.


3. In Japan, Christmas food is usually KFC and Christmas cake.

While in America we prefer turkey, ham, potatoes, and my cousin's really awesome dessert, Japanese people tend to eat Kentucky Fried Chicken and Christmas cake.
Why do they eat this? For the simple reason that it's what you Americans eat, of course! Wait...you don't eat KFC? What??
It seems that the transformation of KFC from simple fast food to classic Christmas fare is a commercial victory. KFC literally sells out the days surrounding Christmas.
Christmas cake is the second big food. Christmas cake is just like any other cake, except that it has Santa on top. Even so, it is an indispensable part of celebrating Christmas.


Merry Christmas!

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

3 Things I Learned About Driving in Rural Japan

1. Stop signs and red lights are only gentle suggestions.

You may have been taught to stop at red lights and at stop signs. If you grew up in California, you may even have learned to slowly roll through stop signs rather than actually coming to a stop. Well, forget everything you learned in driver's ed, because those rules don't apply here in Hekinan. 

When the light turns red, traffic doesn't actually stop. The cars that approach the intersection right after the light turns red still feel free to barrel on down the street, regardless of the green pedestrian crosswalk light. If the car is turning, it seems that the red light doesn't ever apply. 

Stops signs work in much the same way. They seem to be a mere decoration, and stop lines invisible to any local. Who cares about the old lady standing bewildered in the middle of the crosswalk as a car bears down on her--the sooner that car reaches its destination, the better! The ends (getting where you're going) totally justify the means (running down poor old ladies or English teachers on their bicycles...I'm talking about you, white Toyota). 


Of course, when police cars are in the immediate vicinity, the suggestions become a little firmer. But only for a moment. 



2.  There is no such thing as a speed limit.

The roads in Hekinan are pretty narrow. This in no way deters drivers from putting the pedal to the metal. 


The scenario: A car is traversing a narrow street in front of a middle school. Cars are parked on each side of the street. Another car appears at the other end, traveling towards the first car. What is the correct response?


Answer: To gun your engine, of course.


Hekinan drivers have no qualms about narrowly defying death with quick car maneuvers. Both cars will go flying by each other with a berth of only a few inches, with middle schoolers on bicycles trying to cross the street (remember: crosswalks and pedestrians are invisible). 


o.o

3. The fastest and/or biggest car has the right of way. 

Much like in the States, the car with the greatest mass or momentum is guaranteed the right of way. In Hekinan, this rule extends to bicycles and pedestrians as well. 

Which pretty much means I don't get to cross the street unless a kind driver takes pity on me. Sigh!